Guardian Power Drill Press 5-Speed: How to Set It Up and Run It Right

All Posts accessories modifications Noah Carter

You’ve got the machine. Maybe you pulled it out of a garage, inherited it from a school shop, or bought it used. Either way, it’s sitting in front of you and you want to get it running correctly. This guide covers exactly that — assembly sequence, how the 5-speed belt configuration works, table calibration, depth stop setup, and what to do when you need support for a machine that no longer has manufacturer backing.

If you’re still deciding whether to buy a Guardian Power press, the companion article covers the pre-purchase inspection and overall evaluation. This one assumes you already have one and want to set it up properly.


Before You Start: The Safety Check

Before you plug in any used drill press:

  • Inspect the power cord. Look for cracked insulation or damage at the strain relief. Replace before use if you find any.
  • Verify the belt cover is in place. The pulley and belt assembly must be fully enclosed before running.
  • Confirm the table lock is tightened. A loose table that swings under a drill is a serious injury risk.

Assembly Overview

Step 1: Mount the Base. Set the cast iron base on your chosen floor location. Use shims if needed. For a permanent installation, bolt it to the floor.

Step 2: Raise the Column. Slide the column into the base casting and secure with the base clamp bolt. Check plumb with a level against two sides.

Step 3: Install the Table. Slide the table onto the column with its trunnion bracket. Tighten the clamp bolt just enough to hold the table while you continue assembly.

Step 4: Mount the Head. Slide the drill press head onto the top of the column. Align the mounting holes and secure firmly.

Step 5: Install the Motor (if Removed). Mount to the motor plate. Leave the motor plate loose for now to allow belt tension adjustment.

Step 6: Install the Belt. Route the V-belt (or your new link belt) over the desired pulley combination. Once routed, rock the motor plate away from the spindle head to apply tension, then lock.

Step 7: Install the Belt Cover. Attach before doing anything else.

Step 8: Chuck Installation. Slide the chuck arbor into the spindle (MT taper end first — clean both tapers with a dry cloth before insertion). Seat the arbor with a firm tap using a wooden mallet.


Understanding the 5-Speed Belt Configuration

The FDM-58-5S achieves its 5 spindle speeds through a stepped pulley system. The motor runs at a fixed speed (1,725 RPM). Moving the belt to a larger pulley groove on the motor / smaller groove on the spindle gives you a faster spindle speed. Moving to a smaller groove on the motor / larger groove on the spindle gives you a slower spindle speed.

Why Speed Selection Matters

Spindle Speed (approx.)Best For
Slowest (~250–450 RPM)Large diameter bits in hardwood, hole saws in wood, drilling soft metals
Low-mid (~500–900 RPM)Medium bits in hardwood, pilot holes in metal
Middle (~1,000–1,800 RPM)General woodworking, softwood and sheet goods
High-mid (~2,000–2,800 RPM)Small bits in softwood, countersinks in wood
Fastest (~3,000–3,800 RPM)Very small bits, sanding drums, light finishing work

Changing Belt Position

  1. Turn off the machine and wait for the spindle to stop completely.
  2. Open or remove the belt cover.
  3. Release the motor plate tension by loosening the motor mount locking mechanism.
  4. Move the belt to the desired pulley groove combination.
  5. Re-tension the belt: rock the motor plate back until the belt has about 1/2 inch of deflection when pressed at the midpoint. Lock the motor plate.
  6. Replace the belt cover.
  7. Run briefly at no load to verify the belt tracks correctly.

If you’ve replaced the original V-belt with a link belt, the procedure is the same. Link belts are slightly easier to manipulate when changing speeds because they’re more flexible when slack.


Table Angle Calibration

Setting the Table to 90° (Perpendicular to the Spindle)

  1. Chuck a long, straight 1/2-inch drill bit.
  2. Lower the spindle until the bit is close to the table surface.
  3. Place an engineer’s square on the table surface and bring it alongside the bit.
  4. Look for gap between the square’s blade and the bit. Tilt the table to close the gap.
  5. Tighten the tilt lock firmly.
  6. Drill a test hole in scrap wood and verify with a square before drilling your actual workpiece.

Keeping a Reference Mark

Once calibrated to 90°, scratch a light line on the tilt scale at the true zero position. The factory scale markings on vintage machines are often inaccurate.


Depth Stop Configuration

  1. Mark the target depth on your workpiece.
  2. Position your workpiece under the bit and lower the quill manually until the bit tip is at the desired final depth.
  3. Adjust the depth stop nut until it contacts the stop surface.
  4. Lock the nut.
  5. Test on scrap before drilling your actual workpiece.

Tips: Always approach the depth stop from the same direction (downward). For blind holes, sneak up on the final depth — set the stop 1/8” shallow first, drill, measure, then adjust.


Adding a Vise for Workholding

A WEN 3-inch drill press vise is well-matched to this machine. Compact, has a swivel base, and heavy enough to stay put. Clamp the vise to the table with C-clamps if your table doesn’t have T-slots.


Lighting: Upgrading Beyond the Original Fixture

The FDM-58-5S has a built-in lamp. On machines of this vintage, the fixture is often corroded or the wiring suspect. A magnetic LED work light attached to the column or head casting is safer, brighter, and simpler. The magnetic base sticks securely to the cast iron head.


Maintenance Schedule

After every session:

  • Wipe the table surface and apply a light coat of paste wax or machine oil to prevent rust

Monthly:

  • Apply a few drops of machine oil to the quill bore
  • Check belt tension
  • Check all lock bolts for tightness

Annually:

  • Inspect belt for wear or cracking
  • Confirm table calibration at 90°

Support and Warranty: What Exists for a Guardian Power

No official manufacturer support exists. Guardian Power is a discontinued brand. Your support options:

  1. Community forums. Garage Journal, Hobby-Machinist, and Lumberjocks have users who own and have repaired these machines.
  2. Generic parts suppliers. Bearings, belts, switches, and capacitors are standard sizes from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or local bearing supply houses.
  3. Motor shops. A local electric motor shop can test and repair or replace the 1/2 HP motor.

There is no warranty on any used Guardian Power machine.


FAQ

Q: What order do I assemble the Guardian Power drill press? Base → column → table (rough height) → head → motor (if separate) → belt → belt cover → chuck.

Q: How do I change speeds on a 5-speed drill press? Stop the machine completely, open the belt cover, slack the belt by rocking the motor plate, move the belt to the desired pulley groove combination, re-tension, and replace the belt cover.

Q: How tight should the belt be? About 1/2 inch of deflection when pressed at the midpoint. Too loose and it slips; too tight and it loads the motor bearings.

Q: How do I set the depth stop for a blind hole? Lower the bit to the desired final depth, set the stop nut to contact at that position, lock it, then test on scrap.

Q: Why is my drill press vibrating excessively? Most common causes: cracked or glazed V-belt, belt misaligned between pulleys, chuck with runout, or loose head/column clamp bolts. A link belt typically reduces vibration significantly.

Q: Where can I find the Guardian Power 5-speed owner’s manual? No official digital archive exists. Search “Guardian Power 58-5S manual” on Garage Journal’s forums.

Q: How do I stop my table from drifting when I tighten the lock bolt? Set the table a degree or two to the opposite side before tightening — it’ll rotate into final position as you lock it.

Q: Is the original wiring in a vintage Guardian Power safe to use? Inspect carefully before use. Look for cracked insulation and corroded terminals. When in doubt, have an electrician inspect or replace the wiring.

Q: Can I upgrade the spindle speed by changing pulleys? In theory, yes. In practice, most users find the 5 existing speeds adequate.

Q: What’s the best LED replacement for the original lamp? A magnetic-base LED work light on the column or head. Bypasses the original fixture, provides better illumination, and can be repositioned without tools.


References

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